They say middle kids always get the least attention, but not so for Cayman Brac. Hardly bigger than nearby thumb-sized Little Cayman, the Brac, as locals call it, has the same splendid tranquility as her little sister, with a touch of the "big" island - a modern airport with a real runway and a hotel with telephones and satellite TV. While Cayman Brac isn't exactly overloaded with shopping, fine dining, and nightlife (in fact, there is none), you won't mind because you'll be rising and setting with the sun like everyone else.
The attractions here are simple: wind-rustled palm fronds at twilight, hammocks on an untouched beach, and the ubiquitous diving and snorkeling.
Even the most Jaws-Phobic tourist will find their fears fade once they catch sight of a ruby-red sea star or poke their masks into the bowl of a pink barrel sponge. If you're not certified divers, you can become so in four days. True novices should try a resort course that includes a shallow dive.
For those who prefer lightweight touring, a mask and fins will reveal some of the finest snorkeling anywhere. Beginners should reserve at least a couple of days to explore the Buccaneer's Inn site and Helen's Reef, where the coral nearly reaches the ocean surface. (Plan to rent a car or scooters; there are only three taxi's on the island.)
Take another day to scout the 10-mile long isle. The caves that dot the bluff wall near Spot Bay make fine hurricane havens - see if you can screw up your courage to visit Bat Cave. At day's end, the main road that unrolls past flowery oceanside cemeteries and the airy porches of traditional Caymanian homes quickly carries you back to your hammocks by the sea.
